James Bay and Trans Taiga Road 2017 - Day 7

With the abundance of driftwood around us we quickly lit up a camp fire for breakfast and enjoyed a slow start with lots of coffee.

We did celebrate reaching the end of the Trans Taiga Road yesterday knowing that we would have to go all the way back, but we were optimistic and felt that our riding skills on gravel had significantly improved and were determined to proof this on the over 660km of dirt road ahead.

This campsite was the highlight of the trip, slept really well, silence, protection against wind, all the water you need around us, it really couldn't get better than this.

Filtering water for the trip ahead

We were expecting road conditions similar to yesterday, but the grader crews were leveling the hard packed parts creating hazards on the other side. Stretches of the road that we considered easy yesterday, became challenging over night - if anyone tells you about road conditions on the Trans Taiga, don't listen, they change daily up here.

About 70 miles before Mirage outfitter my gas gauge showed 10 miles range – time to use the 2.5 gal canister I am carrying.

We stopped for fuel and a quick lunch at Mirage where meat pie is still being prepared for dinner later, so for us it's lasagna and fries. 
Another bottle of wine for the camp tonight since the beer supply will only arrive Thursday and we are almost on our way.

The super friendly staff told us that two riders coming our way called for rooms at Mirage and we are looking forward to meeting them on the road.

Two guys from Montreal on BMW GS 1150 make their way along the Trans Taiga. They tell us “this is no fun, the bike wobbles all the time”, well, what can we say, their tires seem not to be a fit for the surface they are on and they seem overly cautious. We try to cheer them up, telling them the outfitter is near and the road won't get any worse.

From "driving.ca"

The six loneliest roads in North America for daring drivers

Located in the wilds of northern Quebec, off James Bay Road, this stretch of unpaved gravel is the definition of “extremely remote” and should not be driven by the faint of heart.

There are hardly any service stops along the harsh, stony route. In fact, at its northeastern most extreme, the road sets the mark for being the farthest point in North America from any town (745 km from Radisson, Que.).

We are getting back on our way, apart from some nasty curves with lose gravel resulting in heightened adrenalin levels, we progress really well. It's warm and we kick up a lot of dust forcing us to ride half a mile apart and still, we are covered with the fine sand top to bottom. My pannier locks are starting to jam and I don't want to think about the air filter of the bikes, other that the BMW's run like a breeze - German Engineering :-)

Pontois River in sight - it's warm, we are exhausted and all we carry, apart from water, is a bottle of red wine. We are craving for a can of nice cold beer - and here comes the "sad puppy look" again.

A couple that spent their vacation fishing the river has set up camp close to us and after explaining the emergency of serious de-hydration on my part, I buy a six pack from them. They even store 4 of the cans in their cooler for us to pick up later. About 25 seconds after I regret it - should have bought eight...

Of course there is no firewood and I have to roam the area on the bike to collect some branches. After dinner and the transition to red wine the hatchet is put to use again and some dead wood is cut up to keep the fire going - yes George, the tree was dead!!

It's time to get into the sleeping bag, thinking about the final 201 km of gravel ahead to complete the Trans Taiga.

Odometer reading

Today:                       287.4 miles 

Total:                        2148.1 miles