James Bay and Trans Taiga Road 2017 - Day 8

Slept alright, getting used to the cold and not at all to the mosquitos, every part of skin exposed is covered with bite marks despite the 100% DEET and the All Natural Repellent we alternate between.

Three Coffees and a visit to the outhouse that looked like an aircraft restroom after a transcontinental flight.

The friendly fisherman sold me another six pack of beer in the morning; you have to manage supply out here and we knew for sure the gas station at km 381 on the James Bay Road didn't sell any alcohol.

201km left to get back onto asphalt and leaving about 1600km (1000 miles) of dirt road on this trip behind us. We force ourselves to take a break at about every 60km, staying concentrated is important, my front wheel washed out slightly four times yesterday with one close call and foot down which doesn’t do much at 30 mph. Head up, looking ahead, staying loose and easy on the handlebars, hug the bike with ankles and knees to the tank and a prayer here and there will get you through the soft gravel parts.

Not sure where to go from here – Matagami is probably too far to reach today and we might end up camping along the James Bay Road.

After that I plan to get close to the US border and within reach for the home stretch on Saturday.

Time to start thinking about next year’s trip – Alaska is out of reach given the time available, the Eastern Canada area is somewhat explored, so ideas please…

While contemplating the above, I pack up the bike, say good bye to the friendly fisherman and start up the boxer engine again. Back to the dirt!

Like "horses smelling the barn" we speed up,  eager to get back to the asphalt road. A truck passes us with over 60 mph.  Knowing that you shouldn't stop in the dust right after, as you might be run over by the following vehicle, both of us merged to the far right of the road and hit the breaks - visibility zero!

The last kilometer is indicated by "ARRET 1000" - "500" - "200": and the familiar trash containers come in sight marking the completion of the Trans Taiga.

I am about 100ft away from the container when a Black Bear jumps out of one and dashes off into the woods. Wow, I can't believe that just happened, when I see another one right behind the last container I am passing.

I stop on the other side of the Trans Taiga about 60ft away from the container, frantically waving when George arrives and is about to stop right in front of "Al's lunch box". 

We stay silent at the bikes for a minute or two when our furry trash compactor sticks his head out and walks back to where I disturbed him. 

You can tell he is not comfortable getting back into the container with us near by and decides to trot West over the main Road.

We get back to business and increase the tire pressure on the bikes, still in awe of what we've just seen.

A pickup truck from Hydro Quebec comes down the Trans Taiga, the driver rolls his window down asking "If we had a good trip?": next question "you do know there is a Black Bear behind you, do you?" We turn around and see Al crossing the road South of us about 100ft away, shortly after he completes the full circle over the Trans Taiga to the East. That trash must have a very, very tempting smell....

Al at his "lunch box"

Hoping to see some more of him we waited a while, but nothing and we finally decided to get on our way South; but not before paying tribute to the Trans Taiga and the traditional welcoming of the asphalt, that we will never take for granted.

We had lunch after filling our tanks at the only gas station on the James Bay Road, had a little chat with a family that came up all the way from Washington DC for a vacation. We told them about our bear sighting and to stop at "Al's Lunch Box", for sure the kids will enjoy the show.

The miles flew by on the paved road and we had to force ourselves to stick to the frequent stop rule to  remain concentrated and alert.

We took a break where the Rupert River meets the James Bay Road, even more impressive than where we camped the first time on Day 3, which seemed a long, long time ago.

Our progress to the South brought Matagami, the town where the James Bay Road starts, into reach and the idea of a bed and hotel room was tempting.

With dusk setting in we reached the Matagami Hotel, secured a room and straight to dinner before the restaurant closes. There is a bar with music aside the restaurant and quiet a crowd in there, but by the time we parked the bikes, unload the gear, shower the place has died down and I still have to get used being the eldest person in place like this.
We call it a day and discuss where we should be heading tomorrow. We zoom in on Mont Tremblant State Park Northwest of Montreal.

From their website

With its six great rivers and 400 lakes and streams, Parc national du Mont-Tremblant is a canoer's paradise. It's a rich amalgam of Québec's natural and historic heritages, being the largest and oldest park in the network. This wilderness is so vast that it is home to 40 mammal species, including the wolf.

Sounds like an interesting place and it certainly is a good launch pad for both of us to take on the final stretch home.

Thomas

Odometer reading

Today:                        470.6 miles 

Total:                         2618.7 miles